Two for the North

“Two For The North”

Those were Susan’s words in my ear as the Bombardier 200 jet descended through cloud and revealed the frozen lakes that surround Yellowknife. We went wheels-up 18 hours earlier and had stopped-over in Toronto, Edmonton and Calgary to get to this moment – our return to the north. Our eagerness told us that we had missed the north, and possibly ... somewhat... even the cold!

We are definitely ‘excited’ to be returning to Ennadai Lake, the purity of air and water, the boats, the fish, and most especially – the ethereal sub-arctic forest with its sandy forest floor. Our most profound experience of last year’s time here was a moonlight drive through the forest. We hope to repeat that experience and to have our camera with us this time. I have been kicking myself every time I think about the fact that we forgot to take the camera – and that the conditions did not ‘exactly’ repeat themselves during the time that we were there in 2013.

Our Southern Seas blogs stopped three weeks ago when we put Panacea on the hard  the Billy Joe B and Jane Ann during the river flooding that was threatening   to  affect the (our) boats in Saint John. Son Justin warned that he would be in Mexico during the predicted flooding and that he was worried. We told him that we would take up the slack.

We bade Vic and Marilyn (Whisper) farewell at Vero Beach Yacht Club and did not stop for anything except gasoline until we arrived at the Canada Customs post at Milltown. We left in such a hurry that I subsequently had to ask Vic to go aboard Panacea and stow my genoa and spinnaker blocks. (Thanks Vic!)

Our New Brunswick time was a whirlwind of making contact with friends, and trying to sew-up details on some outstanding projects. For those of you whom we missed on that brief visit ‘home’ we sincerely apologize.   We do not want to overlook any friends.  Friends are the most important thing of all.

The rising flood waters stopped before the anticipated problems could occur.  There was little for us to do about Jane Ann – the cresting of the spring freshet was low enough that she did not float from her stands. 

Billy Joe B, our floating home, has come through the winter in fine style. As we stepped aboard her, I commented to Admiral Susan that Eric was right on top of things this spring, having already unshipped and coiled the ‘bubbler hoses’ which we had hired him to install before we left. She reminded me that we had left the hoses out for him in EXACTLY the position which they now occupied – and that, clearly they had never been deployed. When I looked at Freya on one side and Jordive on the other – each sporting electric de-icers, it was suddenly clear to me that bubblers had not been required.  Eric later advised me that the weather shut him down before he could get to the bubblers – but that the electric de-icers on each side had kept the entire area clear of ice.

The trip west was uneventful.  No single Air Terminals is unique in ignoring one of the basic needs of air passengers in transit. The design criteria which makes people sleep on the floor is definitely faulty. Flights continue to be scheduled with shortish night stopovers.  Susan and I have slept on the floors of a dozen different air terminals in the past couple of years. Most airports are furnished so as to be intentionally uncomfortable for sleep. It is too bad that these ‘rocket scientists-turned-interior decorators’ have stuck with this concept.

 Some airports are more pleasant than others – with Edmonton getting a big negative due to doorbells and gongs going off interminably – seemingly unanswered. We give Calgary a ‘best-in-category’ so far.  No-one expects beds to be provided but it is very unkind to furnish chesterfield-like seats with close-spaced ‘hurdles’ to inhibit the tired traveller. Calgary airport wins our approval because the seats allow the weary to lay out in ‘some’ comfort.

It was a great to be among westerners again - with their pleasantness and the relaxed way of dealing with those around them. We could definitely ‘feel’ the difference, even though we had not noticed anything unusually wrong with Easterners during our brief tour of NB.

 On the leg from Edmonton to Calgary, one young mother handed out pre-printed introductions to her infant asking forgiveness should the infant cry during this, the baby's first flight.  Her short written plea was typed on construction paper with a brief bio of baby, the paper cut in the form of –um, maybe a turtle.  The document came packaged with a bag of sweets.  No one complained when little dolly cried-out, in fact the baby received a great deal of attention and praise. It was a pretty creative effort by the mother, I thought.

We arrived in Yellowknife after a four-leg flight from SJ of 20 hours to be informed that our charter was delayed for a day due to payload/fuel-load adjustments relating to weather. On the drive to downtown we passed a formation of Mounties turned-out in their red costumes, listening to a speech.  We hurried back with our camera after check-in at the Yellowknife Inn but unfortunately, did not catch the event on film.

The delay turned into a two day one as late on Saturday day the air-freight company advised that we should stop waiting for pickup (we were in the hotel lobby with our luggage) and book a room for one more night at the hotel. .  We are told to be ready for a 6:30 am departure on Sunday morning. The room is great – but the hotel does not serve meals on weekends. After placing our luggage in the room we sallied forth. The downtown of Yellowknife is a long distance from the true commercial and shopping area. There are shops – but they serve the office crowd and like the offices, they are mostly closed on the weekends. Or so we had concluded during our 3 day lay-over last summer. This time – however- we found and entered The Black Knight Tavern – a mere block away from the hotel and a place where, to our delight, we discovered that we could have full steak dinners for $20 each and Keiths Standard from a tap.  This was a good find.

On our return to the hotel, the young lady at the desk beckoned me from across the lobby and handed me the telephone. It was ‘the boss’ – touching base.  Azi advised that we had a new fly-time, 7:00 a.m.  We could go around the corner to the 7-11 and buy a sandwich to serve as breakfast.  We would be the only passengers as the rest of the aircraft would be filled with a new quarry-crusher.  

This is fabulous news about the crusher. All of the aggregate at our destination is round, with all of the problems of wind erosion and packing that accompany it. It sounds, however, like it might be a drafty, cold flight. Susan set the alarm and we retired early – awakening and coffeeing-up at 5:30 am. Naturally we were foiled again – this time by blizzard conditions at our destination which would prevent us from landing.

We finally arrived in late afternoon after the storm abated and we helped to unload the plane before going to our new quarters, The Caretakers Cabin.

Last year this cabin was occupied by a half dozen young men and was basically unkempt. This year it had been the home for Al and Frances, from Nova Scotia, who had made it a true home since their arrival in January. And, best of all, awaiting us at the front doorstep was a 100 pound Malamute – just waiting for us to take him for a walk. Did I say this place is heaven? Well it certainly is!

When we arose in the morning our dog was sleeping on the doorstep waiting for us to take him to breakfast. Frances had given Susan all of the ‘care and feeding’ instructions before I was even aware that this dog existed. I think she ‘forgot’ to mention Touque to me to enjoy my surprise. This gentle giant isn’t as used to having his ears caressed as my Chinook and Misty were. I hope he gets used to it.  As I write this he and Susan are slumbering in front of the woodstove.  We were warned to keep him indoors at night due to possible problems with the wolves. The couple who operate the resort also have a dog, a Czech Shepherd – and while the two dogs do not ‘fight’ they are quite territorial – and generally do not encroach on each-others territory.  Today this meant that the Shepherd stayed near the back door of the Lodge, while the Malamute patrolled the front. No matter where we walked – he walked with us. If we drove, then he ran out in front. We humans have little to fear from wolves with these two dogs around.

Here we are and here we shall be staying until well into summer. There is lot to do again this year so stay tuned to ‘Northern News’